Our adventure began in Paihia, the main centre of the Bay of Islands and home to the Treaty of Waitangi House. Russell which was the first permanent European settlement and sea port in New Zealand is just across the bay - a lot of history in this area.
We decided to stay there the night before our bike ride to show-off the Bay of Islands to out English visitor but sadly the weather had other ideas so we saw Paihia through dark clouds and rain.
Next morning the sun shone brightly as we set off to ride the 5 km to Opua where the Twin Coast Trail started. We had not given much thought to this part of the trip - 5km - how hard could it be? It was nasty - up and down many very steep hills on a narrow busy road with lots of traffic!
Finally we rode into Opua, the first port for overseas yachts arriving in the country after crossing the Pacific Ocean and past the busy ferry terminal, to the start of the Twin Coast Cycle trail. We were cruising along on a lovely flat surface on old railway track past the spectacular mangrove swamps until we came to an abrupt halt! The old 80m tunnel was 'closed for repairs', please take alternate route!
So off we headed up over this huge muddy hill (which was why the tunnel was built in the first place!). Riding this alternate route was impossible as the ground had deep channels that could bury you or you bike should you fall into them!
Once back on the old railway line again we were flying along surrounded by beautiful mangroves and both sides and pohutukawa trees with their bright red blooms and soon forgot about the unexpected detour.
We rode over the Taumarere Long Bridge and passed the railway station where Gabriel, the steam train had just discharged around 30 people onto the tracks for a talk about the history of the train and the area. They had travelled from Kawakawa - our soon to be stop for well deserved coffee. We moved away from the track between here and Kawakawa as that was now Gabriel's patch.
Arriving in Kawakawa we headed for one of the many coffee shops to quench our thirst and we picked the one on the main street opposite the infamous Hundertwasser toilet where all tourists to Kawakawa go to enjoy the colourful and quirky tile and art work in the public toilet designed by Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser who visited New Zealand in the 1970s for an exhibition of his work and decided to make the country his second home and bought property near Kawakawa. In 1998 with the help of the community he transformed the town’s public toilets into a work of art.
Left - outside view of the Hundertwasser Toilets!
The next part of the trail took us through several industrial sites, an old wood mill and the small town of Moerewa. It was a gradual climb to our destination Kaikohe. We negotiate many many gates along the way which slowed progress and some gates were at a height that makes pushing a bike with two pannier bags difficult. But then we arrived at the beautiful Orauta Stream suspension bridge and waterfall near Otiria and all was forgiven.
Finally we arrive at Kaikohe, a sleepy town which claims to be the largest inland town in Northland. We were warmly welcomed by the relatively new owner of Mid North Motor Inn. He found us a safe place for our bikes and told us where to go for something to eat. Sadly this did not prove easy because we had spent so much time talking about the day's events and drinking wine we did not get around to thinking about dinner until after 7pm and the nearby RSA where we had planned to eat was closing. So for the first time in 20 years I had MacDonal's takeaways!!
Day 2 - Kaikohe - Horeke 42 km
The clouds had gather overnight and just as we set of after a hearty breakfast it started to drizzle. We had packed our bags and left them for Rob, from Top Trail Hire to collect and take to our final destination Horeke. Next we checked that all had their head torch - as we were heading for a 80 meter curved railway tunnel. The rain continued and as we reached the highest point on the trail it was pelting down so hard there was no time to enjoy the views! We battled on to Okaihau 14 kms from Kaikohe where we had arrange a stop for coffee. A mob of drowned rats descended on Okaihau Village Cafe - the only cafe in this small rural town. As we arrived - the rain stopped and the sun came out and stayed out for the rest of the day - beautiful.
We arrived at Lake Omapere, the centre of the local maori tribal area and once was historically an important source of food for the local maori people who valued the lake for its eels. But the pollution in the lake over years had nearly destroyed the eel life.
However, the now improved water quality in Lake Omapere and its only outlet, the Utakura River, has put tuna (eel) back on the menu at local marae.
We rode on through lush farmland leading to the notorious 'shitchbacks' where we rode/slidered down some very steep grades but with amazing views if you could stop long enough to enjoy them! It was worth it because at the bottom of the switchbacks we were alongside the Utakura river where we found many beautiful spots to stop for lunch.
Lunch beside the Utakura River
We did share the trail with birds, butterflies, goats, rabbits and cows but very few humans. The farmland was lush and we rode through beautiful native bush believing we were alone in the world - blissfully alone!
A few kms before we arrived in Horeke we reached the start of the 1200m boardwalk that took us through beautiful mangroves, what an amazing achievement to build this in the middle of nowhere making it a memorable end to a great ride.
But wait! We were not at the end of the trail yet - it continued through the tiny sleepy settlement of Horeke to Māngungu Mission House -2km passed Horeke. Started in 1828 as a Wesleyan Mission station.
Following lengthy discussions, the largest signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in the country took place here, with over 70 chiefs adding their assent before a crowd of up to 3,000 people
Beside the Horeke Tavern - The first pub in NZ. Horeke has lots of firsts - First commercial shipyard dating back to 1826 with a plaque erected to prove it. The infamous Cannibal Jack was the first pakeha settler in 1825. The first government funded hui/meeting after Treaty of Waitangi was signed. The first murder trial in NZ. The first village postoffice and of course the first pub! The pub serves great beer, wine and food - though a limited menu - the chowder is great!
The oldest pub in NZ - the Horeke Tavern
We ate and drank at the pub and stayed in Horeke for thee days & nights at Riverhead Guesthouse sitting high on the hill overlooking the settlement of Horeke and the Hokianga Harbour. We loved the three days there enjoying the surrounds and walking amongst the Wairere Boulders 3 kms from Horeke. The Boulders are amazing rock formations caused by millions of years of gentle erosion under the kauri forests resulting in extreme "fluting".
We were sad to leave this beautiful part of New Zealand but no doubt we will be back!
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